He rubbed the stock with steel wool and. I made sure to really rub it into the cut wood around the sink, as well as around the faucet: Since I've finished we haven't had to baby the counter one bit. You're not building a deep finish rather the in the wood look. Combine the Minwax Design Series with other Minwax stains to produce on-trend looks, finishes and special effects. Legal fine print on a textured background. Just wipe it on, that's it!
We do wipe up around the sink after using it but we did that with laminate and granite too. When choosing a tung oil finish versus a polyurethane one, consider both the nature of and intended use for the piece. I know some are concerned about having a food safe wood counter, but after curing this stuff is not going anywhere. For a thicker product, reduce the amount of mineral spirits. During my experimentation with a truck load of finishes struggling to find a finish that brought out the plethora of beauty in bubinga (and you thought i was just kidding about the truck load of finishes), I experienced the wrinkling/frosting as a thick coat of tung oil cured - oxidized. One thing to note about staining -- and I noticed this because we had lived with the bare wood for so long -- it can be a little bit of a shock when you first apply the stain. My Dad always recommends steel wool and I find it works great to smooth out the wood out a bit. UNLIMITED membership - Get access to it all. Chris Schwarz has worked out of his tool chests for decades, and finds them to be the perfect combination of protection, access, and flexibility. It's been discontinued. Oil on ash for instance. I don't like using poly on a countertop because if you need to refinish it down the line it's more difficult to remove. And just for kicks I kept it on our back porch for over a month and it still has an odor. Tung oil thick or thin by it self on the bubinga did not provide any facet of the look i was after, nor the other two sub components (BLO and poly) by them selves from the Maloof (which by the way i mixed my self so the tung oil in the Maloof was the exact same as applied alone) but when mixed as Maloof recomended it became the bulk of the hevenly finish for the look I had imagined. But before I go ahead and explain, you should know that there are lots of "tung oil finishes" on paint store shelves. Other tung oil finishes are mixes of oil and varnish. According to my research, Minwax tung oil barely resembles real true tung oil. I come at it from a different line. Some of the most delightful furniture, cabinetry, and trim work are crafted from wood, the world’s oldest and best-loved building material.
After applying the first coat, I felt that it didn't "feel" right. One example of this is the Minwax Tung Oil Finish.
Gave it 2 coats of tru oil, rubbing it with steel wool between coats. As a dining room table finish, will it be enought to protect the top from stains and watermarks?? YUCK. Alkyd-based stain-sealants leave a light surface coating on the wood, making them better suited for interior wood items, such as indoor exposed beams or rustic furniture, that won’t require future applications. I am very sensitive to smells, which can be a curse. Is this food grade stain/wax? Hope’s 100% Genuine Tung Oil. A step up is to use one of the off-the-shelf oil/varnish mixtures like Watco or Minwax Tung Oil Finish. Thanks for the tutorial. Warm natural wood looking finish verses a specimen of wood encased down in a clear and plasticy case of epoxy (which is about the only thing that is going to be fairly full proof and still you can mess it up with a pot or pan that is too hot and placed on the finish. use protection. I’ve had mine for 6 years and I still love them! A finish may look good and complement one wood and just ruin the look of another. On the first coat, the oil sinks in for warm, lustrous look that really amplifies figured wood. As to real tung oil, like linseed oil, it provides very little in the way of moisture and water vapor protection and virtually no abrasion protection, It will also need fairly frequent re-application to maintain is little protective qualities. Polyurethane offers superior waterproofing and is best for high traffic areas. That's the beauty of it, but it can throw you off at first too. But this oil protects so well, I'm not worried about the wood counters at all. My preference is to use an oil based non-poly varnish for the best protection and appearence. Thoughts? I am mearly chiming in on the tung oil. from the Maloof (which by the way i mixed my self so the tung oil in the Maloof was the exact same as applied alone) but when mixed as Maloof recomended it became the bulk of the hevenly finish for the look I had imagined. ), I used that on the butcher block because it works with our floors so well. The original poster didn't mention a specific brand of "tung oil". Let the oil soak into the surface, and reapply to any spots that look dry. What do you recommend for taking care of wood cutting boards? I make the table look the way I want it to (tables for my own use that is) and then "put something on top as a protectant" . Guest, if you have not yet updated your forum bookmark to a secure log in connection, please delete your unsecure book and add the following secure bookmark: https://www.aawforum.org/community/index.php. )If you have a specific question I will do my best to answer you back here! It's not a thick finish like polyurethane, so keep that in mind. The surface will be susceptable to moist heat which causes gray or black rings on the surface. This can take anywhere from a few hours to overnight, depending on the degree of oil in the mixture. After the 2nd coat, I suspected that something was off. A couple of wiped on coats of Waterlox Satin will still have an in-the-wood look quite similar to a real tung oil finish, but with dramatically greater protection from water stains and the like.
Was it me? Jamie Straw. 1. This finish is a blend of boiled linseed oil and varnish, so you get the benefits of both at the same time. take your time and experiment with a truck load of finishes until you find the finish that makes BLACK LIMBA look the way you want it to and provides the protection you seek. I have two cans of Behr's Tung Oil left. Subscribe to Fine Woodworking today and get our lowest price of the season - only $20 for one year. . It allows you to work with the stain a bit longer and keep that "wet edge" as you work. So, I put google to work. Great post, Sarah. . Good luck. Also is Waterlox a brand? We absolutely LOVE it: It warms up our kitchen so much! Pure, real tung oil is not a good choice for a dining room table. It seemed Nice though. Nice name....so, if I am willing to use several coats of the Minwax "Tung Oil" do you believe that it will provide enough protection knowing that it is a tabletop and I will be able to reapply easily once a year or so??? Can you use dish soap and the scrubby side of a sponge or would that take away the protective coat? These finishes contain a small amount of varnish which adds a small amount of long term protection. I am not recomending (or poo pooing) Maloof for your project and i added another component over the Maloof layer on my projects. A standard hand-rubbed oil blend consists of one-part oil (either Tung or boiled linseed), one-part mineral spirits, and one-part polyurethane. I suggest you Goggle ( Keith Burns ten minute finish). It is very light, almost the same viscosity of water. A lot … Combine the Minwax Design Series with other Minwax stains to produce on-trend looks, finishes and special effects. Without protection, however, most wood will suffer from exposure to moisture and high humidity, resulting in swelling, warping, or even rotting. It is sticky (I absolutely hate the way it feels so I use a glove!) .
So if I added stain in the middle, there was a clear mark from where I applied. Take precautions by keeping a bucket of water handy while working; as a rag becomes oil-saturated, drop it in the bucket while and continue with a clean rag. When completely dry, you can throw them away without risk, but rags should not be reused. http://www.sydneywoodturners.com.au/site/articles/finishing/oils.html, http://www.aawforum.org/community/index.php?media/users/gerald-lawrence.20956/, http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=20050&cat=1,190,42942, (You must log in or sign up to reply here.
So you know when you have to tackle a project (DIY, work, home, whatever) and you put it off forever because you think it's going to be a big pain...and then you do it and it takes no time at all and turns out beautifully and you kick yourself for waiting that long?
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